Moncalvo

Italy's Smallest Official City

Moncalvo holds a record no other place in Italy can claim: the country's smallest officially designated "città" — a medieval title it has held for centuries, granted by papal decree. The borgo itself is handsome rather than spectacular: a 14th-century castle crowns the hill, the historic piazza is ringed with arcades, and the church of Sant'Antonio Abate has a fine painted ceiling that most visitors overlook. The scale of the place is part of its appeal — everything is within five minutes' walk and the atmosphere is genuinely that of a living community rather than a preserved attraction.

October and November bring white truffle season, and the local market becomes one of the best in the area for finding the genuine article at fairer prices than the more famous markets of Alba. The Fiera del Bue Grasso in November draws crowds from across Piemonte for the selection of the finest Fassone cattle of the year — a tradition that blends agriculture, food culture and civic pride in a way that is entirely particular to this part of Italy. The weekly Thursday market runs year-round and is worth an early morning stop.