La Luna Nera

La Luna Nera

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Hilltop Cooking Near a Romanesque Church

A family agriturismo perched on the hillside near the 11th-century Romanesque church of San Secondo di Cortazzone — one of the most beautiful pre-Romanesque buildings in the Asti province, largely overlooked and entirely worth a detour. The church is a few minutes' walk from the agriturismo, which means you can pair a visit to one of the most extraordinary small Romanesque buildings in the region with a generous Piedmontese lunch at a table that looks out across the valley. The combination makes for one of the more complete afternoons in the territory.

The cooking at La Luna Nera follows the season and the farm: Piedmontese antipasti, handmade pasta, grilled meats from the estate, the local cheeses. Sweeping valley views from the terrace and the unhurried rhythm of a farm table are the background. Worth combining with a visit to the church on the same afternoon — ask at the agriturismo for the key, as it is often kept by a neighbour.